Italy

Friday
Dawn hadn’t even thought about cracking when our alarms went off at 3am. However, in 2 short hours we were at the departure gates ready to head to Italy for some beautiful sunny days of cultured art, architecture and food.
We landed in Pisa airport to 29 degrees and bright sunshine, got ourselves sorted and headed for the train that would eventually take us to Florence Santa Maria Novella station.

We bowled up at our hotel (gorgeous Hotel River right by the river Arno, 5 mins walk from the main city centre) a couple of hours early expecting to only be able to leave our bags and have to come back later to check in only to be warmly welcomed and given our keys within 10 minutes. Instant good impression made even better by the fact this was achieved despite their computer system being frozen and the concierge not even being able to see if the rooms were ready. (Fortunately he was a smart chap who just called the housekeeper to find out if our room was sorted!) The heavenly bliss of an air-conditioned room with balcony and scrumptious apricot jellies on our pillows. Honestly it just got better and better. After getting settled we headed into town to get our bearings.

A short, 5 min walk lead us to Chiesa Santa Croce with its stunning marble façade. We had pizza for lunch at a little restaurant just down the road, tried to accustom ourselves to the heat (now about 32 degrees) and studied the map to decide where to go next.

After lunch we chose a side street and wandered until we reached the Palazzo Vecchio which is the town hall. The square by this building houses the replica of Michelangelo’s David as this is where it first lived. There is also a loggia that has many other lovely sculptures from the same period.

From here we headed down past the Uffizzi Gallery to see the Ponte Vecchio from the road beside the river. You may be unsurprised to hear that at this point we found a rowing club. Situated underneath the Uffizzi. A highlight moment.

By now the heat was taking its toll – the air conditioned room at the hotel was calling. So we headed back to chill out and plan our next foray.

The concierge at the hotel had recommended we visit the top floor balcony that overlooked the river while at the hotel. Before heading out to look for likely places for dinner and enjoy the city in the cooler (?) evening we decided a quick stop upstairs would be worthwhile. The view was stunning (next pic).

The area to the left of the top of the tower is Piazzale Michelangelo – another (bronze) replica of the David sits here and this is where all the bus tours stop to give you a view of the city (Contiki takes a group photo from here too).

We also spotted a cat-sized creature crawling along the weir in the river. Closer inspection showed it was an otter – right in the middle of the city! Fantastic.

We decided to head into town the long way – crossing the river and walking down to the Ponte Vecchio from the far side. The jewellers shops that operate on the bridge had all closed but there was a chap busking who had attracted a massive crowd so the bridge was still really busy. To either end of it were the most fantastic gelaterias to tempt you:

After dinner we headed back to the Ponte Vecchio for more photos then bed – big day tomorrow.

Saturday
We took our time about heading out deciding to aim for the Duomo first. We joined a fast moving, short queue to look around inside and as we came out and saw the same queue stretching back around the building and completely stopped we realised we’d been extremely lucky. Every time we went past the cathedral we saw a longer and longer queue – we didn’t see it short and fast moving any other time we were there!

From the Duomo we headed for the Bargello museum to see more Davids. This time there was Donatello’s David – a bronze statue that made me think of Peter Pan. We also saw hordes of byzantine panels, some armoury and so on. The building was built as a palace first, then housed the magistrate, then the police and became a prison, then became a convent before becoming a gallery. Quite a varied old life! It was very peaceful. Quite unlike the Uffizzi which we decided to pass on as the queues were SO long.

After some more wandering, eating and an afternoon relax we decided again to stroll up to the Ponte Vecchio in the hope of getting there before all the shops shut. We joined the throng and spent quite some time admiring the sparkly glittery things in all the windows. I suspect the lights that were illuminating the displays are responsible for the heat in Florence – they must have been kicking out some massive wattage because I definitely got not only tanned but slightly baked from being near them.

There seems to be a taste for knuckle dusters in Italy – there were rings in all the displays that could have weighed down Rocky’s fist. They were garish and superb at the same time.

Fortunately for us, when the heavens opened and a month’s worth of rain fell in 50 mins we had just stopped for a drink and were sheltered under the umbrellas watching other people get caught out (mwah ha ha ha). There was a massive thunderstorm. Unsurprisingly the little chaps that go around selling the prints of paintings and tacky plastic junk immediately appeared selling umbrellas (Dad – do you remember the ones in Rome?)

When the rain had reduced to little more than a drizzle we headed for a restaurant we had found the day before to try out their fare (photos as right). This place is just down the road from our hotel and served the best value, most delicious food and because of the rain was almost empty so we got a brilliant table outside under the covered area (the bright area to the left) and watched Florence go by over pasta and antipasti. We even got an accordion serenade. We came back to the same place on Sunday night when it had not rained all day and it was PACKED. It looks quite small from this picture but it’s massive inside – luckily for us.

And so Saturday wound down over a carafe of Chianti.

Sunday
The rain on Saturday evening cooled down all the streets and buildings so Sunday started relatively cool. We had decided to get a 48 hour ticket to sightseeing bus which conveniently stopped right outside the hotel. We were aiming for the Duomo to climb up to the top but when we got there the long, long line to the cathedral was still in operation but the entrance to the dome was shut! Ah well. Next time.
Plan B: take the bus up to the Accademia di Belle Arti (?) to see THE David (Michelangelo’s one). The line for this also stretched off around the building but, helpfully, there is a big sign on the building saying you can cut the queue and pre-book tickets at a museum just up the road. So that’s what we did. For a small extra price we pre-booked for 30 mins time and after a nice little rest in the park nearby we wandered down to the pre-booked entrance and walked straight in – well worth the extra!

To be honest the most important and impressive thing in this place is The David. It’s astonishing. It stands in its own domed alcove exactly as it looks in all the photos. It is massive! However it doesn’t impose on its space – it’s been very well situated. There was a special exhibition of photos by a photographer who was inspired by Michelangelo’s use of form so there were a couple of his photos hung near the sculpture but normally there is nothing hung around it. Despite that you are still not allowed to take photos. You can walk right around it and there is a platform for seating at the back so we sat and contemplated. It’s quite novel to see his bum! ;-)

The rest of the building is dominated by byzantine works of art – loads and loads of alter panels depicting biblical stories. It’s a massive collection but largely can go unmentioned here.

After contemplations and whatnot it was definitely lunch time. This time we went for the walk and eat option grabbing a scrummy sandwich at the first tasty looking shop we passed and continuing on our way heading back towards the Palazzo Vecchio etc.

It got extremely hot in the early afternoon so we decided to make use of the pool that was “800m” from the hotel. We set off following the directions we had, saw a rowing club… and a canoe club… and some parks… and no pool… We wandered further and further until we decided we must have missed it. We turned around and about 5 mins back the other way we stopped someone to ask where it was – only to be told it was back in the other direction. So back we went with me muttering it better be worth it. And it so was! We eventually got to it – a big park with a kiddies paddling pool on one side and a big, deep, multi-laned pool on the other with a bar and snack shop etc in between. A very good set up. The area was quite busy with people picnicking and sunbathing but the pool wasn’t very busy. We had to walk through a foot bath to even get up to the pool which was quite a clever way to ensure everyone had at least bathed their feet. But finally we were there – at the pool. In we jumped and there we stayed for a glorious 2 hours!

However thirst and hunger drove us back down the road to the hotel. The evenings plan was to catch the bus around the next bit of the sightseeing circuit (we wanted to visit the Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset then do the rest of the ride) before stopping at our now favourite restaurant for dinner. So here is the view of the Ponte Vecchio (bridge left), with Piazza Vecchio tower to the right of that, then the Duomo to the right of that again:

From the piazzale the bus follows the winding hill road through what is obviously the right side of the tracks. Galileo’s observatory is up in these hills as are villas that used to belong to some rich, famous and (ig)noble people, then the road winds down back into the city and loops back over the river eventually taking us to the stop by the restaurant. It’s a brilliant ride passing through wide squares and down the narrowest alleyways, passing old churches filled with beautiful works of art, passed monasteries and convents and castles and villas, cake shops, restaurants and gelaterias – all the wonderful things you want to see in Florence!  It hits most of the main spots related to the Medici family who rules Florence for centuries and were responsibly ultimately for all the works of art and cultural relevance being retained in the city for the public. You can even see the private walkway they had from their grand palace over the Ponte Vecchio along the frontage of the Uffizzi and into the Palazzo Vecchio – so that they would not have to tread where commoners do!

Naturally we enjoyed another glorious evening with a carafe of Chianti and some wonderful Tuscan food before retiring in preparation of ‘the last big day’.

Monday
Final day. Things to do: Pack. Get into town. Buy Souvenirs. Re visit everything! Get home!

We started out by aiming for all the carts selling souvenirs – bags, belts, wallets (anything leather), fridge magnets, fans, hats, scarves (in that heat?), t-shirts, mini Davids, tat, tack etc etc.
Monday is obviously the day all the tour groups come into town. It was packed with groups of people being given guided tours – from within Italy, from Spain, America, England, China, everywhere! We were aiming for the central market on the far side of town and walked down every increasingly swanky streets before we finally came to a massive area of carts the filled the little streets – all selling more and more of the same leather and souvenir goods. And then we reached it – Mecca! A giant market selling meats and cheeses and wine and pasta and herbs and all sorts of things – the place where real Florentines shop. Brilliant. We did end up buying some salami (wow!) and humming and hah-ing over absolutely everything else! I could easily live in Florence and that would be where I spend all my money!

Eventually we had to suck it up, leave the market, make our way back towards the hotel for one final run around all the sites – the one big hit – and make for the train station. We had a moment or two at the station and on the train thinking ‘oh my word please let this be the right one’ and all the trains were running up to an hour late. A lovely Italian girl who spoke flawless English became the translator of all the station and train announcements for our carriage – helping all us bemused tourists out! She further confirmed to me that Italians are superb!

Then we were at the airport, then on the plane, then home again (back in that darn queue at Stansted!).
Fini

Following our first week or two of adventures Mum and Dad went to Crete and had a ball while I got back to work...yaaaaaaaaaawn... and earned some more dosh to spend on the next trip - Rome.

I wont go on about Rome because I have done this at least twice and maybe more previously but this trip was totally different. We were mucked about by the B&B folk and I recind my recommendations of them now as the new folk are rubbish. However after a battle of wills we got the room we booked and the view etc and took a walking tour looking for diinner. This time around we found Largo Argentina (many times - one of those spots we kept stumbling across) and ate in a cool little pub that was showing the Americas cup (Dad was happy) and strolled about taking in the forum and colloseum and all those things nearby. Over the next three days, after much walking and a scam artist ((I've lost my wallet and cant buy petrol - if I give you a leather jacket will you give me money etc etc etc) and gelato and sun and bustle we got a ticket to one of the tour buses which was well worth it! Dad got to walk along the ring of circo massimo and mum got to the tiberine island and we all wandered up and 'admired' the hoardes of people at St Peters... More gelato (no surprise there)...we also found a fantastic little restaurant for dinner the second night and decided that was where we were going forever more but it was closed the next night...possibly a good reason to get us looking farther afield for our supper!
It rained then was beautifully hot and sunny... the crowds were astounding and the toutes are now all of a different ethinic background and MUCH more creepy than those that occupied the streets on my previous trips.
We had the most fantastic hail storm - just after we had returned to the B&B on teh second day it chucked it down with hail stones the size of golf balls. The streets cleared of everyone apart from the tout selling umbrellas (he did well the day before but I dont think he did so well with the hail). The scooter riders pulled up onto the sidewalks and hid under dooways and anywhere they could find and we all just watched the hail fall for a full half an hour. The place looked like it had been hit with a snow storm for a short time afterwards but the sun popped out and melted it all pretty quickly! It was mad weather!
On our final afternoon Mum and I found a FANTASTIC porceline shop I'd love to live near (but I'd be broke if I did) called Bianca something...Huge baskets of prceline that looked like woven wicker and teeny tiny little pestles and mortars and everything in between - heaven, absolute heaven.
Because it was near easter there were pilgrims everywhere and you couldn't go anywhere without seeing one of three things - nuns/priests/monks; a wall of mopeds at the front of every queue at the traffic lights; hoardes of police men and women at intersections guiding traffic to allow police/ambulance vehicles to get through the almost constant crush of traffic. What a fabulous place!

We tried to get lost and right when we thought we succeeded we walked around a corner and were at the Trevi Fountain so it proves all roads lead to Rome and you can't get lost if thats how it works can you?! I think my mum got a bit of a culture shock - the traffic certainly had her stumped but Dad had ladies blowing him kisses every time he stopped traffic to help mum get across so it can't all be bad can it?!

After Rome we took some time to go up north - aiming for John O'Groats. But you'll have to read the next blog for that info!!

In my 3 years from home I have made a fair dent into my list of places to see. The 'big four' places left (those ones left from the original list) seem to be languishing in the distant future at the moment because of work commitments and cash going on other things but they will be done. In the meantime I have been reminiscing over past travels with my friend Mark who is now on his OE and staying with us.

Combine that with reading Dan Browns Angels and Demons and you can just tell how itchy the old feet have gotten. I have definitely gotten a bit Rome-sick. Its such a beautiful city and you can gad about the central city on foot and walk from the Pantheon to St Peters Square in minutes passing the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Nouvona on the way.

If you fancy going bottom to top, you can walk from the coloseum right through the city via the Forum up to the Spanish Steps (nicer in Spring than summer)and right up the the walls of the Vatican city without feeling like you have taken on a major trek. This is always helped by frequent stops to buy Gelato and look at various souvenir shops.

One of the really lovely and unique things about Rome is the drinking fountains. The Senate declared that Rome would supply fresh drink water to all her citizens and so it is. If the fountain isn't good for dangling your tootsies in its good for filling your water bottle from so you always have a supply of cooling liquid at no extra cost. Which is important if you are going to walk all over the historical city on a hot day.

On my last trip to Rome, with Anton, we managed to cover the city several times over. Every time we walked back to our hotel which was situated behind the colosuem we directed ourselves past this fountain very near the Forum and stopped for 10 or 20 minutes to let our feet recover. Bliss is a cool fountain on a hot day!

For those people who are into the slightly different you can also travel south of the coloseum by the Metro and go to the Non-catholic cemetary which is fronted by a pyramid and is home to another population of Romes cats (much like the colloseo cats). Here you can visit Keats and Shelley in their final resting place or sculpture/american artist William Story and his amazing final sculpture which deorates his wifes grave. Its so peacefuland calm and oasis like that it is worth a stop if you are in Rome. Its like a little time out!

The Vatican city is also somewhere I think you could visit a dozen times over and not get bored! There is so much art and so many rooms to see! The Sistine Chapel alone could use up about 4 hours of your day. On both my previous visits to Rome I have seen Il Papa (John Paul II). To then walk through the city you really understand why the catholic faith has inspired so many millions of people. St Peters is also such a tremendous place you can only feel awe when you are there.

Something I noticed about Rome that I haven't really considered on any other trip to Italy is how massive the buildings are - their dimensions are just huge - but within an hour inside the city you stop noticing the enormity and your perspective adjusts or adapts so that you have to remind yourself how huge are the buildings you are in or looking at! The pantheon is a prime example. Its just so huge! It totally dominates the square it is sited in between residential buildings/restaurants. However, once you have taken it all in your eyes adjust and then this massive dome seems to be just the right size even though you may have never seen a one floor building of its magnatude before! When you get home and see a photo of yourself completely dwarfed by the Pantheons gargantuan proportions you think 'I don't remember it looking so huge'! And the whole city is like that!

Its a beautiful place. Of all the Italian cities I have seen Milan and Rome are my two favourites so far. Milan is small and has such sweet and small places to see that you can visit its major tourist highlights in one day but you could spend a lifetime shopping - from Gucci to the market square - but rome offers shopping and sights and experiences that far surpass any other place in Europe that I have been. It was the one city I never really wanted to see but Rome has totally captured me!

If you go make sure you stop and see the monastery of the cappucine monks. There are 5 chapels or alters in successive rooms that have each been entirely decorated with the bones of dead monks. Sounds creepy? Thats right! Apparently the monastery was originally outside the walls of Rome but at some point in more recent times (say - a few hundred years back) they were ordered inside the walls for their own protection. They refused to leave their brothers behind and so dug them all up and brought them with. And now you can, for a donation, visit the rooms and see how they have been decorated. I have tried to describe it to people but its not the easiest image to convey so go and see, leave them a hefty donation to help them keep on keeping on and marvel at the alters! This site comes highly recommended!

And while your in Rome, or if you stop in Italy at all make sure you spend your days eating Gelato! I have found love and love is... gelato! Simple as - this food is gods gift to man- and womankind. Life does not get any better once you have discovered gelato.

I can rave about it all day but I think you get the idea. Its better than regular tip-top or walls ice cream. It beats the pants off mr whippy and it sure as heck rates as highly as any of the other good stuff in life. You make a trip to italy totally worth it if you only go for the gelato!

Still Rome-sick. Roll on holidays!